17 August 2017


International Alpiniad "Elbrus 1967-2017"

At the initiative of the International Advisory Committee of organizationsof reserve officers (IAC) in cooperation with the executive authorities of Kabardino-Balkarian Republic and the Public Council under the Ministry of Defense of Russia, and "Spetspromteh Ltd.» and the National Association of Unions of Reserve Officers of the Armed Forces "Megapir" was held in August 2017 the International Alpiniad "Elbrus 1967-2017" - climbing the two peaks of Mount Elbrus (highest in Europe: western 5642m, eastern 5621m), dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the Mass ascension to Elbrus in July 1967.

In the ascent took part a combined team of the IAC, consisting of 18 people, conditionally divided into two groups. Group "A" (7 people) - veterans who ascended the western peak on a facilitated program using technical means: an experienced climbing climber on Elbrus and many other peaks, G. Voitenko, and Master of Sports of the USSR international class in mountaineering, holder of the sign of the USSR "Snow Leopard" No.3 V. Bozhukov-having experience of ascent to the highest peaks of the world, and a multiple climber on Elbrus M. Kalinkin, and A.M. Kumakhov, and also as a doctor of the team-professor, MD. V. Lanchinsky, who has a great experience of high mountain climbing, and a married couple of experienced mountain climbers Anna and Igor Masyakin earlier ascended to Elbrus. Assault Group "B" (11 people) - from well-trained young officers-athletes, who climbed without using technical means. The head of the group is PA. Barannik.

Before the IAC team was tasked to climb the Elbrus, to raise the flags of the IAC and "Megapir" and «Spetcpromteh» to the tops of Elbrus. The maximum task included the ascent of the assault group on both peaks of Elbrus, in order to try to find the metal box with the tokens of climbers on the eastern side of 1967. (Then about 2500 people were preparing for the mass ascension, and those of them who reached the summit put their name tags in the slot of the metal box fixed there, on the box there was an inscription: "To open in 50 years later, in 2017". It was meant that the tokens represent a certain sporting and historical interest, taking into account that the ascent to Elbrus in July 1967 is still a unique event in mountaineering not only in the USSR and Russia, but all over the world. In terms of successful resolution 50 years ago of such complex organizational and technical issues, ensuring the security of such a large-scale event and the composition of participants (not professionals) it has no analogues.

The idea of organizing the ascent "Elbrus 1967-2017" suggested by A. Kumakhov, General Secretary of the International Advisory Committee of Organizations of Reserve Officers - who climbed Elbrus in 1967. The IAC initiative supported by the Head of the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic and the Elbrus High-Altitude Search and Rescue Unit. To carry out large and complex international event by order of the Government of Kabardino-Balkaria created Organizing Committee for preparation and holding of climbing Elbrus in August 2017. It consists have been included A. Kanshin, and A. Kumakhov, and G. Voitenko, and V. Bozhukovt, and M. Kalinkin.

Before climbing in accordance with the tactical schedule of acclimatization, the IAC team conducted a complex of training and adaptation activities on the slopes of the mountains with a gradual increase in the heights of climbs and descents, including snow and ice exercises in the Elbrus region.

The combined team of the IAC successfully solved the tasks - on August 10, 2017, climbed the western peak of Elbrus, and six people from the assault group "B" made a traverse from the Elbrus saddle, just after the western one, they climbed to the eastern peak on the same day. The flags raised on both peaks of Elbrus. Along with well-prepared training, it facilitated by the well-organized, highly professional work of the members of the Organizing Committee, all the services of the Elbrus region, assistance and support in solving technical issues on their part.

Unfortunately, on the eastern peak of Elbrus, the above-mentioned box with a tokens of the climbers of 1967 was not found either by the members of the IAC assault group or by the special search group of the Elbrus high-altitude search and rescue team of the Main Directorate of the Ministry for Emergency Situations of Russia for the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic.

The organizers and participants of the "Elbrus 1967-2017" ascent are sure that it promotes popularization and further development of mountaineering and tourism as a means of patriotic education, strengthening physical training and health, improving applied skills, improving sports skills, further developing sports traditions, will be a contribution In the popularization of mountaineering, tourism and sports.

During the preparation for the ascent held in the Elbrus region an International humanitarian action in memory of the Obelisk to the soldiers of the Soviet Army who died during the defense and liberation of the Elbrus region in the Great Patriotic War. In this event and laying wreaths and flowers to the Obelisk participated: I. Morozov-member of the Federation Council of the Federal Assembly of the Russian Federation andKanshin-President of the International Advisory Committee of Organizations of Reserve Officers, representative of the Club of Generals and Admirals of Serbia R. Shkorich, and the IAC team, guests from the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Stavropol Territory and Rostov Region, members of the Unarmy youth movement, schoolchildren, residents of the village of Terskol (Elbrus region), participants of the All-Russian Historical Festival "The sky above the clouds".